Angler
African Outfitter Back Issues: CONTENTS - June / July 2007 - (Vol 2/4)

Self-guided hunting in Burkina Faso - André DeGeorges

Self-guided hunting in Burkina Faso
Dozo Hunters in traditional clothing
Burkina Faso is prime hunting country for West African savanna species. Since 2003, traditional Dozo hunters from the Comoé-Léraba Reserve have been undertaking anti-poaching and taking out overseas sport hunters, primarily from Europe. The Dozo hunter/warriors date back to the Malian Empire of the 1200s and form the standing army for Conté in Guinea, the rebels in the Northern Ivory Coast, and manage the peripheral zones in the new Park of Upper Guinea.

The origin of the Donso (Dozo) hunting guilds date back to the 1236 AD under the Mandingo Empire of Sundiata Keita. They consider themselves professional. Their hunting garb consists of an earthy dyed tunic and a special hat that looks like a wig. Gris Gris are special amulets prepared by Moslem marabous and worn by the Dozo to protect them from evil sprits. The apprentice hunter donso dewn and his hunting over a 3–6-year period are controlled by the 'master hunter' or donsofa, donso-koutigui or kalanfa. He is steeped in the traditions of hunting, 'transformation into lion and other creatures', traditional medicine and protection against the genies / mythical figures of the bush whose livestock is the game you will hunt. You will have a chance to learn about these traditions and taboos and the required precautions you must take while on your hunt in order to assure it is both successful and safe.

The uniqueness of this program is that the government has turned over the management and operation of the reserve to the local community, numbering 17 000 people in 17 villages that border the reserve. A community organization AGEREF oversees reserve management and the organization of hunting trips.

Tshwane University of Technology's involvement
It all started when professional hunter Richard Rouget was invited by Jean-Michel Pavy of the World Bank to consider taking over the area. He was not interested. Somehow, my name came up. I had known Jean-Michel before he joined the bank. He is a keen hunter and was born and raised in Mali. His goal has always been to give something back to the people and natural areas of Africa whose survival is so intertwined. I had lost contact with Jean-Michel over the years.

With Richard's help, and the modern technology of email, we discussed the idea of Chasse Libre (self-guided hunting) where in fact a local hunter guides you. In collaboration with the Department of Nature Conservation, Tshwane University of Technology (TUT), and Jean-Michel, a student was placed in the reserve to help with jump-starting this program.

Meanwhile, the community has selected a student from the Dozo clan, Yaya Ouattara to study for a diploma in nature conservation at TUT. The goal is to expose Yaya to the southern African wildlife model and to train him in modern-day wildlife and range-management principles, which upon his return he will integrate into the traditional Dozo management system. He is also being exposed to the incredible economic potential for wildlife based upon the South African model. He is one of the best students in his class and there is no doubt that he will be a candidate for a BTech and maybe even a masters degree, hopefully to be undertaken on an applied subject concerning the management of wildlife in the Comoé-Léraba Reserve.

Though I have visited the hunting zone about three years ago when we placed a student, Morgane Echappé, there, I have not had the pleasure of hunting this area with the Dozo. I have however hunted from 1982 to 1988, the same species of game with relatives of the Dozo, the Mandingue (Mandinka / Malinké) hunters in the Zone d'Intérêt Cynégétique de la Falémé, Senegal along the Mali and Guinean borders as well as in the Fouta Djallon mountains of Guinea.

HUNTING ZONE

The Comoé-Léraba Reserve is located in the south-western part of Burkina Faso, on the border with the Ivory Coast, 530 km southwest of the capital, Ouagadougou. Although a civil war continues across the border, this hunting area and its wildlife remain not only untouched but perfectly safe for visitors. The 2004/05/06 hunting seasons have been conducted without difficulties and hunters have been satisfied.

Comoé-Léraba Reserve covers a total surface area of about 125 000 ha. A zone located between the savanna and dense humid forest, the dominant vegetation is savanna. However, the zone is also characterized by vast grassy plains and beautiful gallery forest along the Comoé and its affluent the Léraba Rivers. In addition, natural pools scattered throughout the reserve results in a good distribution of game in the central part that constitutes the hunting area.

Hunting camps
There are 2 types of camps available to hunters:

The village camp is located close to Folonzo village, and consists of 4 ventilated rooms with a table, chairs, beds and kitchen). The solar system of electricity supply allows the use of computer facilities (laptop computers, digital cameras, etc.). In between hunting, staying here offers a unique opportunity to learn about local village life, culture, and to discover brotherhood of hunters through traditional dances and rituals.

The bush camp consists of straw huts along the border of Comoé River in the centre of the reserve. Opportunities also exist to fish for capitaine (Nile perch), reaching up to 50 kg and for bird watching. From both camps wives can be taken on nature drives and learn about village life.

Camping gear & clothes
It is advisable to bring light-weight sleeping bags, a light-weight backpacker cook kit and a 'camping gas' stove (puncture-type canisters purchased in-country) to make a quick cup of coffee or tea. Granola bars and instant oatmeal in individual packets offer a quick breakfast and/or snack. Vacuum-packed biltong may be useful until game is taken. All other food and drink can be bought in-country.

It is recommended that you dress as per your preference when hunting in South Africa, the climate and habitat being very similar.

Hunting rifles
The following are recommended

  • .300 or .338 Winchester Magnum for plains game
  • .375 H&H Magnum/.416 Remington/Rigby for plains game and buffalo
  • 458 Magnum (Winchester, Lott, Watt, etc.) for buffalo

Two rifles are authorized per hunter along with 20 rounds of ammo per rifle. For buffalo the .375, .416 or .458 calibres or larger are required. The advantage of the .375 H&H and .458 Winchester Magnum is, as over much of Africa, ammo can be found if by chance your rifle arrives but your ammo does not. Shots will be under bush conditions from close up to very likely under 150 meters. Don't forget, if there is a problem like a charge, you are your only backup, "so use enough gun!"

WILDLIFE

Only 6–8 sport hunters are allowed into this area each year. Savanna species that can be hunted include, buffalo, western roan, western hartebeest, sing-sing waterbuck, kob de buffon, harnessed bushbuck, various duikers, warthogs and baboons. The area is extremely rich in hartebeest and roan as noted:

HUNTING METHOD: WALK & STALK

Self-guided hunting in Burkina Faso
Hunter posing with western hartebeest
Hunting is walk-and-stalk on foot by cutting fresh tracks and or from visual sightings. You need to be in excellent condition, capable of walking 5–8 hours a day. You will be guided by some of the best traditional hunters in West Africa. It will be your responsibility to judge the trophy and ultimately to decide if you should shoot. If wounded, the Dozo hunters will track the animal down, but you, the overseas sport hunter, must be prepared to sort the problem out once the animal is found, even a charge from an angry buffalo. You have no backup, other than yourself, unless a hunting buddy accompanies you. Hunting is legal from 6 in the morning until 6 at night. It is strictly prohibited to hunt during the night. Shooting from the vehicle is illegal, though the vehicle can be used to reach various localities from which hunting on foot can begin.

As American hunter John Darr exclaims, "What we got was a real, old-time African hunt without the interference and cost of a professional hunter. We walked our legs off, but enjoyed every minute of our experience. We are already planning to go back in 2008."

HUNTING SEASON

The hunting is during the dry season from December 1st to May 31st. The first three months (December to February) are the most pleasant. The temperatures oscillate between 25 °C and 30 °C in the day and from 12 °C to 18 °C at night. From March, the temperatures increase a little and can reach 36 °C. A light jacket is recommended for early morning, especially in the early season. By 10:00, it is normally taken off.

TYPICAL HUNTING-TRIP ITINERARY

Upon arrival at Ouagadougou:

  • Day 1: Welcome at Ouagadougou airport in evening and first night at hotel
  • Day 2: Move towards the hunting zone, welcome on the site and ranging fire for adjusting rifles;
  • From day 3 to the last day : Hunting; and
  • Last day: Departure to Ouagadougou, visit of handcraft (artisan) village and flight to France in the night.

SERVICES PROVIDED COMPRISED AS COST OF HUNT

COST OF HUNT (Not including trophy fees):

  • Buffalo Safari (14 days) : 1 Buffalo, 2 grand antelopes (hartebeest, roan antelope,), 1 middle antelope in choice (kob, bushbuck), 1 warthog + baboon or pâtés (red monkey): 4500€ (R 44,235)

  • Grand Antelopes Safari (10 days) : 3 grand antelopes (hartebeest, roan antelope, waterbuck), 1 warthog + baboon or pâtés (red monkey): 3500€ (R 34,405)

  • Duikers Safari (7 days) : 1 gray or common duiker, 1 red-flanked duiker, 2 warthogs + 1 monkey: 2665€ (R 26,196)

    When one considers that a roan hunt alone in South Africa can cost as much as about 19,000€, anyone wanting the experience of hunting a roan will find this affordable even after adding the small trophy fee and travel expenses. Apart from the incredible adventure, this is one heck of a bargain!

    The costs shown above include:

    • Assistance of hunters customs upon arrival and departure to Ouagadougou airport
    • Travel to the hunting camp (the round trip)
    • Accommodation during the hunt
    • Organisation of hunting by private vehicle 4X4 including rental and trackers
    • Fees for the importation and exportation of rifles arranged for you in Burkina Faso
    • Obtaining big game hunting license
    • Portable mineral water.

    Services not provided include:

    • The trip ticket (round trip)
    • Hotel accommodations before & after hunt
    • Administrative taxes: Visas, fees for packaging and transfer of trophies, veterinary taxes, certificates of origin (about 5€/trophy)
    • Camp beverages except mineral water (alcohol, soda, etc.)
    • Food
    • Trophy shipment
    • Trophy fees

    TROPHY FEE: Trophy fees are to be paid in the field upon taking a trophy and are very reasonable:

    Formalities, vaccinations
    AGEREF will help the overseas hunter with all administrative formalities. However, the hunter must arrive with a:

    • valid passport
    • 4 identity photos for the hunting license application
    • vaccination against yellow fever (obligatory)
    • vaccination against tetanus and other anti-fevers (recommended) (See Centre for Disease Control).

    Getting there

    Self-guided hunting in Burkina Faso
    Zambian-style thatched hunting camp
    For Europeans there are direct flights to the capital Ouagadougou out of Paris. If a Burkina Faso embassy is not available, the French Embassy in your country can provide a visa. For Southern Africans, an airline ticket good for one month costs roughly R10 500.

    Clara at SAA City Centre Park Travel (012) 343-4923 can arrange your flight at. Unfortunately, the cheapest route is through Benin, which requires spending one night upon your return in Cotonou. A visa is not needed by South Africans to Benin, but it will be necessary to go to the French Embassy in Joburg to obtain a visa for Burkina Faso.

    The French embassy website is www.consulfrance-jhb.org where an application (same one as for the EU) can be obtained and all requirements explained. Information on proper but affordable hotels in Cotonou can be emailed to you.

    RESERVATIONS

    Remember, when you make a reservation, you are reserving the entire Comoé-Léraba Reserve for yourself. No other sport hunter will be allowed in during your stay. We recommend that two sport hunters come as a team. Reservations must be made no later than one month before the opening of hunting season and will be confirmed by the payment of a deposit of 50% not redeemable. The transfers will be done on the following account:

    AGEREF/CL
    BP: 181 Banfora (Burkina Faso)
    Compte BACB n° 300051732420-9
    Code swift: CNCBBF-BF

    For questions and reservations contact Mamadou Karama at: mfkarama@yahoo.fr

    CLIENT REFERENCES
    Jean-Michel Pavy, jpavy@worldbank.org
    John Andrew Darr, darr@bc.edu
    Richard Stephen Darr, rsdarr@earthlink.net
    Morgane Echappé (Bilingual and lives in the capital of Burkina Faso, Ouagadougou – can provide first-hand knowledge having spent nearly a year in the reserve, taking out many hunters), escapemorgan@yahoo.fr

    SOUTH AFRICAN REFERENCES
    Yaya Ouattara, yayhus@yahoo.fr and 078-183-0824
    André DeGeorges, degeorgespa@tut.ac.za and 083-945-3135